If this recession is resulting in more homeowners staying put, we may see a growth in the home remodeling industry.  Remaking our homes, using existing structures, has not been the desire of most homeowners. We want to build something new, so we either tear down what is there, or we move further out to find space for a home. Most of us consider adding space to our homes by stretching into our backyards, yet to make our home feel new, we may consider adding onto the front of our homes.
    I like looking at building facades. When I was in downtown Houston this past weekend, I spent time looking at the wonderful ornamentation on the older buildings. My personal taste is towards the cleaner modern designs, but complex ornamentation holds my eye. Since a flat face was put forward towards the street, older buildings relied on adding carvings to trim at the fascia and windows. There would even be work done to indicate the division of the interior. On older homes, we can see creativity often expressed in brick work. Patterns were worked into the field; bricks were carefully placed at edges in a decorative manner; and we can find different types of bricks would be used. Window trim and fascia/soffit decoration seemed more prominent on homes from the Victorian era, but this ornamentation did go on into the mid twentieth century.  After World War II, builders raced to develop subdivisions for the growing population. In order to have many homes built at once, designs became more streamlined. Ornamentation was out.
    I find the regularity of neighborhoods built in the last ten to fifteen years disheartening. With a society on the move, we did not much care; we would only be in the home a few years anyway. There may even be neighborhoods that insist on this monotony through deed restrictions. We do have choices. You need to understand that when you look at your home, you are seeing an exterior wall covering. The brick or wood is not meant to carry any weight (now it might be effected by weight in some way; that is how you get cracks). This covering can be removed or changed if you wish. You do need to ensure that the new covering is attached to your home well, and that water cannot penetrate it.
    What if you wished to dramatically change you home’s appearance? I am not writing about changing the covering for a new look. I mean changing the design. After my weekend time downtown, I was driving through a neighborhood when I found the house in the picture below. This new entrance makes a grand statement which separates it from its neighbors. Originally, this home would have had a gable roof over the front door, like other homes on the block. What this homeowner created is a new entrance hall with a dramatically different facade. I think maybe they should have better tied this design into the rest of the house. To me this new entrance looks slapped onto the front of the older home. By using similar materials to the existing home or extending the reference to the new materials on the other portions of the home could help. This is actually where an architect can be a benefit. Adding this feature to the front of the home helped change the profile from the other homes.

    This kind of change to the facade could be a trend. I am not a fan of deed restrictions, because homeowner associations do go wild with their authority. However, I do think that we have to consider neighborhood character. Tract home subdivisions do gain character over time. Although, bringing in more architectural styles can give a neighborhood flare. Somehow we have to find balance.

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I was inspecting a home this weekend where the builder had rushed building several homes at once, and they were not too fussy about material quality. They did try to make the home look nice. I am not too bothered with using a standard appliance or piece of wood; I care more about construction quality. However, there are times that I do become concerned with the quality of the good being used. This problem becomes more acute with engineered wood products and how they are handled on the job site.
   Last night I was over at a relative’s house with nothing to do. The children were playing; the wives were discussing sewing fabrics for furniture; and I was alone. I decided to head out to a construction site that had been abandoned a year ago, but I had passed by when heading to an inspection recently. I saw that a crew had been on the scene, and I was wondering what they were working on. This site caught my attention, because of roof trusses and wall coverings that had been sitting out in the open. A roof truss is an engineered system that can take the load of the roof and distribute it to the walls while allowing more space beneath. These are being used on homes, but most of us have a home with rafters and joists for the framing. A truss relies on the load (weight) being distributed throughout its members in specific means. This allows for smaller lumber pieces to be used than the rafter and joist method, but everything in the truss has to be in good shape for the system to work well. Look at the picture below, and see what strikes you as odd.

    These boards have been left out in the rain for at least a year. Hopefully, they will not be used. They do have a trash container there, but it looked like the builders were looking at the possibility of using the trusses. We may find it obvious not to use such weatherized trusses, but when you are trying to save money, you may consider going with inadequate material. I am sure that they will not use them; they are in too bad of shape. There are cases which are not too obvious. Laminated wood products are quite common in the construction industry. This is a great development, since we are using wood effectively. The problem these products face is mishandling. An engineered laminated header or oriented strand board cannot be left out in the rain. For that matter, any piece of framing lumber should not be left out in the rain. A little rain may not be a problem. The problem arises when the water effects the framing member.  During phase inspections (inspecting a home during its construction phases), I have seen builders use these products once they have been out in the rain.
    Leaving an engineered wood product may not have caused a concern. I look for weaknesses which may have arisen from this situation. Are pieces delaminating from the product? Can I find any other weakness, such as soft spots? Has the integrity been effected in any way?  If I do find an issue, the piece may still be used. It depends upon the piece, and the amount of damage. Typically, this becomes the provenance of structural engineers. Like I said, each engineered, or even non-engineered, wood product is designed to deal with certain weight or installations, and this is where the structural engineer can tell you if the integrity has been maintained.
    Although I do phase inspections, I do not always suggest to clients that they need them. In many Texas counties, there is a requirement that homes be inspected several times during the building process. I do suggest having your own home inspector for the final inspection though. Your own home inspector will be more detailed in his report, and the inspector will be more responsive to you. Once the wall coverings go up, issues with weathered framing pieces cannot be seen.

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I have been receiving calls from homeowners wanting advice on home improvements. One particular question dealt with a tile problem (the tiles were cracking, and they were bound to crack again- the issue was the foundations). We are becoming stationary in our movement. If we leave our homes for another part of the country for a job, we loose out financially on the sale of our home, so we do not move. To cut back on expenses, we stay in to watch a movie and dinner, rather than going out. There seems to be a trend to let our homes take on further importance in our lives. Having the space for our interests by creating additions to our homes may be the desire of homeowners.

   Our natural inclination is to expand our homes into existing space. The patio becomes an extra living room. The garage become an extra bedroom or family space. Patios are already sitting/dining space, and the garage may already have a family room atmosphere, so we are formalizing this function. The slabs of a patio or garage are not the same as our foundation though. We have an easier time converting the garage, but with the patio we have to create a new foundation. Or we should; this sometimes is not the case, and this is the first problem. If you are building the addition on your own, and you are not obtaining a building permit, you may be cutting corners. A simple slab of a patio does not carry the load (weight) of a room; moreover, the grading of the ground could lead to moisture problems.
   Most of us will hire a contractor to build the addition. The standard way for this extra space to be created (by good and bad contractors) is to start with a new foundation. You may not realize that you probably walk into buildings with more than one foundation. As commercial buildings expand, new foundations are poured. More than one foundation is acceptable, but there is a difference between a commercial and residential structure: the tie-in between the addition and older structure. Having an expansion joint on the wall, ceiling, and floor is not really a problem in a commercial setting; however, we do not want to look at this joint in the home. The two foundations will be moving differently, and this can lead to cracks. We may not need an expansion joint for the wall or ceiling in residential construction, but the floor will be a problem. Tile over the joint between the two foundations will crack. Solid wood may buckle. A laminate wood may have more play. Carpet is the best for dealing with this joint, or you can have a joint strip like the covering which goes into the threshold of a doorway.
    You may not need the expansion joint, but the contractor should connect the new structure into the older structure properly. I have seen entire additions pull away from the home, because they were not attached properly. How the old and new are connected depends upon the addition being built, but suffice it to say a few nails will not do. The new structure has to become integrated into the older framing. You cannot have two separate framings, and then a wall covering over these two sets of framing, and think that you have a connection. The wall covering will crack.
    The next area of concern is how are the services from the existing structure routed to the new structure. Electrical wiring may be better on its own circuit. I see breakers double lugged, or the wiring tied into an existing circuit. This only leads to electrical problems down the line (think shorts). Air conditioning and plumbing lines should be properly attached. With air conditioning, you may find that you existing appliances cannot handle the new square footage. Air conditioning units are sized for the existing space, so adding space may mean a new air conditioning system. Plumbing lines do need connections to be done well, or you may have leaks.
    Expanding our space is a wonderful option. Personally, I like the idea of finding ways to make use of existing space wisely. You can build up, keeping the existing foundation footprint. I have seen homes with attic space that could have been part of the living space. In this scenario, we do have to look at the framing and older structure. Can the home take the extra weight of living space in the attic? This is where you will need a structural engineer.  Adding loads to the framing can cause problems in other parts of the home, so you need to know if this plan will be alright. In fact, going through the steps of obtaining a building permit, having a structural engineer approve plans, and having an architect draw up the plans can be the best assurance for a job done correctly.

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Last night I had a phone call about one of my posts, but the caller raised a question about home inspector responsibility. With the power being out last night due to a storm, I had time not to be distracted, so I thought about the implications of a visible inspection. Home inspections by definition are inspections of visible elements of the home. Infrared technology has expanded some reporting, but this is not that common, and an infrared inspection does not reveal all issues. Exactly what is behind that wall or concrete slab can only be known when those obstacles are removed, and no one is going to take a home apart to examine it. This call did present a unique scenario about reporting on visual issues.
    I do not know the situation faced by this inspector at this home, so I will take examples from my own inspections to illustrate problems with visual inspections. I have known sellers to hide problems. Storing items around a problem area to prevent the inspector from seeing it happens often. I had a seller inform me that a particular set of boxes could be moved under no circumstances, because they contained delicate goods. From other evidence, I told my client that I thought there was a leak in that location. Turned out that I was right. Garages become storage areas in preparation for the move, so parts of the home may not be inspected simply because there is too much in the way. One homeowner had only a small path left in their garage, so there was no way for me to reach the electrical service panel of water heater. Another had blocked access to the attic (fortunately, the homeowner helped me move goods, so I could get into the attic). Sometimes furniture blocks outlets and panels.  There are many obstacles to visually see elements in certain inspections.
    There are times when a homeowner is not hiding a problem, but correcting one issue can hide another. A month ago I was walking through an attic that had new blown insulation. This was a small attic, and I could have stood at the entrance to see most things. I did walk this small attic, since that is what I am supposed to do, and I know that I could very well find a problem. I was lucky. Trying to find joists under the insulation for footing, I stumbled upon an open junction box. Once I discovered the first one, I began looking for others. I did find a different wiring issue, but finding another junction box was like finding a needle in a haystack.  Let us pose a question here: if an inspector did not find this open junction box, would he be responsible if it was discovered as a problem later by the new homeowner? Here is my answer: if I only stayed at the attic entrance, and did not attempt to explore, then I should be held responsible; however, if I walked the attic, and did not find it, then I should not be held responsible. This is why an inspector should state how the attic was inspected, but what do you think of this situation?
    Lets change the scene to a different problem. I mentioned before that I had a suspicion that there was a leak where the homeownerhad insisted that some boxes could not be moved. In the bathroom, there had been repairs done to the sink waste piping which made me curious. I reported this repair, because it was done badly. What if I had seen that a repair had been made, but it looked clean, like a professional may have fixed it? Here is one problem, I have seen professionals do sloppy jobs. What if the job looks sloppy, but it show no signs of being a problem? This is where I find a grey area. I may or may not mention that repairs have been made if the repairs were done properly, and I can find no issue.  If the repair was sloppy or a patch job, then I think that I would mention it, even if there was not a problem. A homeowner is allowed to make repairs on their own home, and they are not going to always make perfect looking repairs, so I cannot say that a repair is a problem, unless there is an issue. The question becomes: was the repair so badly handled that the home inspector should have called it as an issue on their report? Then we have to define “so badly”, and this I think may be a matter of perception.  Is one patch on a water pipe bad? Maybe not. What if there are several patches along the pipe? Maybe the pipe should have been replaced. If there is only one repaired section with no issue, we may say the inspector did not need to mention it. The pipe with several repairs, even without issues, could indicate more problems. Your thoughts?
    If there is a question of doubt as to whether the home inspector should have reported a situation, then you may have to go to a higher authority.  Backing up, you should discuss this with the home inspector first. If that talk does not resolve your problem, then go up the ladder. In states with a legal entity overseeing home inspectors, then you should go to that authority. In Texas, this would be TREC (Texas Real Estate Commission), which also handles situations with real estate agents. For other states, you can look at my “Information on Inspectors” page. 

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I have written about this resource for Houstonians on another occasion, but maybe a description of the center would help. I had heard that the exhibit had been updated, so I thought that it would be a good time to go back. There never seemed to be a moment to stop to take a look. I had a doctor’s appointment for my daughter, which went faster than expected, so I took my girls to the Building Department to see the center. The Green Building Resource Center is in the same building where you would go for your building permits, 3300 Main.
    First, this is an office, so it is not the model of a kid friendly place, but I had no problems. They did enjoy the center, and my older daughter is convinced that we can put in a pool with a solar pump. The dreams of four year olds is hard to sway. Also, if you are not taking the light rail, it is easier to drive on Travis to reach the center.

    The center reminds me of a classroom for home inspectors or construction managers. You have a good many items with information to examine, so that you can become familiar with them. If you are curious about sustainable building, but you are beginning to learn, this space is not set-up in an exhibit form like a science museum, so you may be discouraged. If you take the time at each area, you will find that you can learn a good deal. Everything is packed into the area. There are a wealth of fact sheets, and you can ask questions of the staff (you cannot bring your plans for review, only questions). There are displays which demonstrate the effectiveness of different products. Touching the different window types will show you the amount of heat that can be transferred. I liked the exhibit showing the attic  and surface temperatures of the various roof covering materials.  I feel that homeowners have to understand the consequences of their choices, and several displays did go into these choices. A few exhibits appear to be nothing more than an information display from a manufacturer- what you may find in a hardware store or home center. However, many of these products are not always the easiest to find, so you do discover what to look for.

    If you are a home inspector in Houston or involved in construction in any way, then you need take a look at this resource. For those who are curious about improving their homes, spend time here, take notes, and pick up data and fact sheets. Any resource that can help us make smart building decisions should be part of our plan before we build.

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I spent an evening at a friend’s house. He had a problem with his home, so I checked it out. He bought the home nearly thirty years ago, with various upgrades done over time.  Most homeowners do not stay in their homes for that many years. We are a nation on the move, but there are homes that have not been inspected. I have had homeowners request a home inspection, because they want to know what problems they may have, but I am not saying that you need an inspector. What you need is to be observant.
    Do you know who is working for you? I run into many general contractors or remodelers. You may find large firms and small ones, but size does not determine if they are a quality firm. My assumption is that a company which is a member of the Better Business Bureau would be one to trust. This is not always the case, but at least you have recourse through that organization. I hear horror stories from homeowners about their experiences. Large firms will take your call, but tell you that they are right, and you are wrong without coming out to look at their work. Small firms will disappear. This is not a general rule, but you hear it often enough that you come to believe it. Yet every relationship with a contractor starts off all smiles, and you really feel that they are their to help. What you may not know is how well were they trained to do the job. We are slowly moving towards having better standards for the people working on your home, but most of them have no formal education. They learned from their father, relative, or employer, which can be great as long as they are taught well. 
    I find the most issues in the attic. Roofers may do a great job on the roof covering, yet I consistently find problems in the attic after they leave. I cannot say that they are always at fault, but I do wonder. The main problem revolves around vents. Last night, it was a vent for the cooktop. The duct had a vent opening to lead it out of the attic, but the duct was pointed into the attic. I could see grease and moisture covering the surfaces where the duct pointed.  Water heater ducts also seem to pop out quite a bit. This can be dangerous. Insulation will be pushed away, allowing heat to pass into the home. I have even seen rafters or purlins that were damaged. Here I am picking on roofers. The fact is that any contractor could have handled a situation incorrectly. Sometimes its the homeowners not understanding how their structure functions, so they cause unintentional damage.
    Maybe we need “This is how your home works” manual to help homeowners from making mistakes. Having as home inspector as a friend may help,or you can hire one (nudge, nudge). What you need to do is check out areas of the home that are effected by work being done on the home. Does something look strange?  Do you think it may not be right? Then ask a question. You can always send me an email with a question. Once a year,walk around your home to see what looks out of place.

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Sitting in my living room, thinking about what I had just read, I look over the walls and ceilings, noticing cracks. I know of one problem with my foundation ( the left side is slightly lower due to moisture in the ground), but these cracks were new, and they had nothing to do with my foundation. I wondered what another home inspector would state if they saw those cracks. If the inspector was paying attention, he would make a statement concerning movement. In a way,movement is the culprit; however, I know the specific cause, and it was my weight.
   To improve my home, I had been working in the attic late spring and early summer. The cracks corresponded to positions that I had taken when repairing ducts or installing equipment. Could another home inspector figure out the source of the cracks? Maybe with consideration, but the determination of movement is generally correct. These cracks would not continue to expand, since my work is done. Other movement factors may effect these cracks, but since the source has been removed (my weight), the cracks are likely to remain as they are. The other fault which I noticed due to my efforts were nail pops.  If I make repairs, the cracks will not come back.
    This month has seen more re-inspections than new inspections. Re-inspections often happen before the homeowners move into their new home. Seeing problems is easier; however, an occupied home is not so bad.  One owner did not realize that they had to light their water heater, so they thought I had not noticed that the water heater was not working. In fact, a few owners are not prepared for their new home. I did observe new problems in the homes due to bringing in belongings. Attics are being used as storage space, and extra weight up there causes the same problem as my weight did, but the cracks can continue, because of the constant weight. Attics should not be deemed storage spaces really. Pests can use your boxes as homes. The boxes and stored goods will dry out in the attic, making good kindling for fires. Finally, the weight of the goods and your weight going to up there to get the stored good will help cause issues.
    In another case, the older appliances in the attic were  replaced. Appliances like water heaters and the components of the HVAC system are installed in new homes before the wall coverings go up. When replacing appliances, workers have to go through the home to the attic opening. Once in the attic, they are handling this weight. This process will cause its own cracks in wall coverings. We also seem to go with bigger appliances. This is not always necessary, but technicians make more money.
    I think that we have trained buyers to look for cracks, and to associate them with the foundation. There is so much dross across the web, yet the web is better informing consumers. Even though homeowners may not think about everything that needs to be done when moving into the home, they are asking better questions about safety issues or about possible issues. Cracks may mean any number of things, and they can be caused by different things, so the foundation is not always the culprit.

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I was taken aback when I saw my electric bill for this last month. The amount was almost a third of what I paid last year at this time. I was expecting less, but not by this much. I felt a bit of victory. I think that we concentrate on electric bills, because they do seem to go out of control in the summer. Gas bills typically go down. Water bills go up, but never so dramatically. As an aside, I am looking at decreasing my water usage, even though I am not as worried about water costs. Water rates have been increasing, and we may find ourselves having to pay for the true amount for the service, so it is better to start now. The road to lower my electric bill has actually been a long one, but I am still not done implementing my strategy to reduce the amount of electricity that I use. I thought that I would share these steps to help you along this path.

Step 1) Understand your bill.  My electric service provider had me in a contract where I was going to face a fine if I broke the contract. At the time, I thought that I had a good deal, but I found that was not the case. When I began looking for another provider, I compared their rates for how many cents average for a kilowatt hour. As I talked to others, I found that they had all made the same mistake that I had: not understanding that the final amount involved more than that charge. I was comparing apples to oranges, and I was not aware that I was doing that. Fortunately, I was reading the fine print. I was familiar with the various charges on my old bill, and when going through a website for another service provider, I happened upon a statement about the other charges. Once I began to look for them, I found statements that indicated that fantastic deals could be more expensive than what I already had. Read through the sites to understand what they may be charging you to find the provider with the best deal. Rates may mislead.

Step 2) Green home conversion. Look through my posts under that category, and you will find what I have been doing to my house. To begin reducing your utility bill, you can change the light bulbs, insulate, seal, and follow other green advice. I did not tackle this overnight, and I am going to continue. What I do try to stress in these posts is the idea that you should understand why something is happening in your home, and then find the best way to address it. I begin one project when I have the money for it, or the time is right. I will not spend along time in an attic in a Houston summer, so there is still more installation to do, as well as other things.

Step 3) Be proactive. Our knowledge of how homes work, and how to best deal with their inefficiencies is growing, but we are not there yet. As manufacturers start producing products to meet the trend, you could already be there. I find that people will do one thing to reduce their electric bill, like adding insulation, but then they stop. Rates go up, so that one step failed you (or so you believe). When I cannot easily find a product off the shelf at the home improvement center there are other options. Buy it off the internet. Make it yourself. (I am finding that making things myself saves me money, and it is not hard to do). Discover the latest ideas.

Step 4) Reduce what you use. Bigger is better. More is better. We become stuck in our ways. I stopped using my desktop. The laptop uses far less energy. I do not pull out a kitchen appliance when I can do something by hand. Power strips are turned off after we use the devices attached to them, like computers or televisions. Lights do not stay on. Most methods of reducing are habits.  Once the children learn that they can pull up a shade for light during the day instead of using the lamp, you will find energy reduction. However, there is another aspect to consider. Do you need the largest television? Many consumer goods using electricity have advertising indicating their energy savings, but this does not mean that they are equals. Look at how much energy is used. Decide if you need the item, or is there a reason for wanting it. The top of the line coffee maker which does one hundred and one things is great, but if I only need it for coffee, why plug it in. The fancier coffee maker is probably using electricity all of the time.

Step 5) Do not use the electricity in the first place. With the heat advisory in Houston right now, I have not been able to take the children outside. Having them play, is a great way to remove them from the temptation of the television, computer, or gaming system. However, in the house, we read together. We draw. We have projects. If we are outside on a summer’s evening, no electricity inside the house is needed. The sun sets so late that we can continue the outdoor fun.  But not using electricity can mean more. Do you need a digital clock plugged into a wall outlet in every room? We strive for convenience without considering how we live. Most of us use our cell phones to tell the time anyway, so do we need the clock? Here I am picking on the clock, but look around you own house. How many power hungry objects are there which you do not use?

Is there anything earth shattering in these five steps? No. I bet you have heard them before this. However, I do want to stress step 3. I feel that this is where we fail. Who wants to think about working on their home? Set it and forget it is the motto we all can easily follow. Who wants to learn something new that may help reduce their energy usage? Well, you do since you are reading this blog. Considering that there is nothing new here for you, it may be the step 3 is where there is a hang up, but step 1 is also a problem area.  You have to take the time to go through the documentation if you want the best result.  Hopefully, I made you think about what you are doing.

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I go up on roofs. I have to, since it is part of the home inspection process. There are a few outs that I could take if I wanted. The state has in its rules that I am only required to have a ladder which reaches the roof of a one story home. I also do not need to go on a roof if I deem it unsafe. I know from experience that a report from a person looking at the roof from the ground or from a ladder does not carry as much weight as a report from a person who goes up on the roof. Although I have been going up on roofs this summer, there is a good reason  as to why I should not: the heat.
   I burned my hand by touching a roof. I generally take precautions, but I did not heed my own protocols once. Lesson learned. Your outside temperature may be in the 90s, but your roof surface could be 135F or higher. If you have a breaker on your air conditioning compressor that is on the roof, you may find your AC shutting down. Breakers on these units trip when the temperature is above 135F.  This is not common on a residential structures, but commercial buildings face this problem often. To deal with this surface temperature, I wear gloves. I like mechanics gloves, since these give me flexibility when examining parts of the roof during an inspection.  Other precautions that I take is to plan my ascent. This sounds like mountain climbing, but you need to think about the pitch of the roof, how you will be getting on, and how you will be getting off. I walk around the building looking for a safe spot. If there is a valley between two roof planes, I find this to be a good spot. Any flat or lower pitched area is also good. When the pitch is at a steeper angle, coming down can be problematic (great for the life of the roof though). You need to be able to step on and off the ladder easily. If possible, using a bungee cord to hold the ladder to the home is wise.

    How can walking on a hot roof damage the surface? This applies to any roof covering that uses a composite material. Composite shingles use asphalt as a base. The asphalt melts with the heat. A misplaced step can damage the shingle. There are a few factors that come into play, but you could tear or break the shingle. The bigger problem is what you may be carrying up on the roof. With the shingle being softer due to the heat, a falling tool is likely to cause damage than a step. If the shingles were not well installed, you are more likely to have a damage occur.
    A note about ladder placement. If the home has a gutter, try to find where there is a fastener. You can see the head on the face of the gutter, but you can also see the nail going into the fascia in the gap between it and the gutter. Place the legs of the ladder to straddle this fastener. This causes less damage to the gutter with better support for the ladder. If there is no gutter, you can place it anywhere, but control your ladder. Letting it fall against the roof edge can damage the shingles or the bit of flashing that helps the rain fall away from the fascia. Also, have a good ladder that is the proper size. The ladder should go beyond the edge of the roof. If you are concerned about storage, I use collapsible ladders for work.
    Be safe. Plan out the steps for climbing up on the roof. Even a low pitched roof can present dangers, but I am seeing many homes with higher pitched roofs, which is good for the home, but bad for safety. Just realize that bare skin on a hot asphalt roof can lead to injury.

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There were a few posts about gardening in the forum. Those topics are already being dealt with on the subdomain to this site, the separate blog for gardening: http://houstongardening.yourhoustonhomeinspector.com

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