Note: This is an updated version of an article that I wrote for my clients in 2006. Then in 2008, I published the different sections with some changes as separate posts. Now I am combining those individual posts into one comprehensive overview of a Texas Home Inspection report format. I have rewritten a few sections to reflect new aspects of this report.

The time you spend discussing the job that the inspector has done for you will be brief compared to other aspects of the purchasing process. You should ask questions of the inspector, so you understand what he has found. He will present his findings in a written report, which is produced according to the standards outlined by the Texas Real Estate Commission.

A report from one inspector to another should not have too many differences, if each inspector is investigating the house properly. A report could state very plainly the observed conditions, or it could become extremely wordy, but the intention of any report is to inform you of the condition of the property at the time of inspection. Inspectors may have different ways of stressing a significant point to you about the house, but when the inspector suggests that a licensed or qualified professional who specializes in a certain field examine a component of the house, you should realize that as an area you should pay special attention to. It is up to you whether the specialist should be called in, so determine if the issue is important enough to you to warrant further investigation. Do not be afraid to ask the inspector about his report. An inspector is there to help you understand the state the house is in, so he should be willing to answer any question.

The report will be divided into six main sections: Structural Systems; Electrical Systems; Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning; Plumbing System; Appliances; and Optional Systems. The report also includes a statement from the Texas Real Estate Commission, which basically describes the purpose of the report. Here is where reports from various home inspectors can differ. On the first page, you will find a section entitled “Additional Information Provided By The Inspector”. This section can include statements by the inspector about how his report is created, or it could contain information about conditions under which the inspection was or will be performed. The inspector could leave this section blank, but if he does not, the information there is usually about how, when, or under what terms the inspection was performed, and not about any specific concern for the house under investigation. Lastly, there is an “Additional Comments” section. These comments are up to the inspector. It might state some details of how the inspection was conducted, or it might state something that was in the report for emphasis, but it could also contain a statement by the inspector of the conditions under which the report was produced. It might also contain concerns about the house that are not part of the normal inspection. You should read the last two sections mentioned, since each inspector will place his own information in those spaces. Ask questions of your inspector, if something in these sections does not make sense to you.

As for the six main sections, the inspector is not there to find what the cause of a problem is or to fix the problem; he is there to determine if there is a problem. He may or may not know why the air conditioner is not working, but he should not tell you. Why, you ask? Well, did he spend all his time taking apart the unit? Probably not. He spent his time looking at all of the house, so he would not have devoted enough time to accurately determine the real reason for the air conditioner’s failure. To determine the cause for each issue with the house could take days, and the inspector is spending about three hours at the home. For purchasing a home, you need general information about the condition, not exact causes. The inspector is looking at the parts of the house which are easily accessible. He will not move furniture or boxes out of the way to inspect an area, unless he can easily do so. The next sections will discuss in general what a home inspector is looking at for his report.

A. Strucutral: An explanation of what an inspector will include on a home inspection report when examining the structural system.

This section of the report consists of eleven parts: foundations; grading and drainage; roof covering; roof structure and attic; walls (interior and exterior); ceilings and floors; doors; windows; fireplace/chimney; porches, decks, and carports(attached); and other.

The foundation is the base on which your house sits. Unless your foundation is on bedrock, it will move due to the soil condition around your house. The inspector will be looking at the type of foundation you have, and if the foundation is functioning the way it should . Most of the foundation is under the ground, so the inspector will be reporting on signs to indicate what is happening. He will tell you the type of foundation, and he will give you a written opinion on its performance. If the foundation is pier and beam, the inspector should tell you how he examined the foundation. If he can, he should be going under the home for this examination.

Connected to the foundation’s performance is the grading and drainage. If the round is too dry or too wet, the foundation can move as the soil around expands and contracts with the amount of water in it. When the soil is too high, water and insects have better opportunities to do damage to your walls and siding.

The next section is roof covering. No one can tell you exactly how long a roof will last, but an inspector will be indicating signs which might lead (or which have already led) to problems with water or pest damage. The inspector will be writing down the signs which indicate current condition, so you can look to see if this worsens. He will tell you the type of covering, and indications as to how it is functioning. Home inspector’s are required to have a ladder that can reach a one story roof. There are supposed to go onto the roof for the examination, as long as it is safe to do so.

Roof structure and attic will be discussed next. Ventilation of the attic is important to the life of the roof as well as cooling the house. The inspector will also mention any concerns about the support system of the roof. Here is where he will use the specific terms for the members of the structure, so ask what he means by a purlin, if you do not know what it is. He will tell you how he inspected the attic. The inspector should comment on attic insulation and pest problems here.

Walls are observed from interior and exterior. Although an interior wall and exterior wall are connected, they are treated separately since a problem may occur on one side but not on the other. Condition and deficiencies in steps and burglar bars will be reported on here. A key item to look for on walls are cracks larger than an 1/8 of an inch wide, since these may indicate more of a structural issue. The inspector is concerned with signs in the walls that are related to structural problems.

Moving on, the inspector will write about the ceilings and floors. He will be looking for cracks, water stains, condition of the coverings, and signs of structural problems. He will not report on a bad paint job, since this does not effect the house’s structure.

Windows actually consist of the framing around the unit, the unit’s frame and glass, the unit’s sealing from weather, and the screen. A concern for the inspector is if the glass should be tempered or not in certain locations. Tempered glass should be installed in locations where there might be a chance of someone going through the window. Screens are important in keeping out pests, and possibly preventing some damage to the glass.

Fireplace/chimney section will list any safety concerns or deficiencies that could lead to fire and improper fireplace operation. Safety issues for preventing injury to the owners will also be noted. Checking for creosote build-up is such a concern. He will look at the chimney as it goes through the attic and roof to the exterior. He may also be checking the function depending upon the type of fireplace.

Noteveryone may have a porch, deck, and carport(attached),but if they are present, their structure can affect the house. Main concerns in this section are structural integrity (such as wood rot) and safety issues (such as whether the deck needs a railing or not) . The last section, “other”, is a place for the inspector to put information about the structure which did not fit elsewhere.

B. The Electrical System: An explanation of what an inspector will include on a home inspection report when examining the electrical system.

This section of the report contains two parts: service entrance and panels; and branch circuits-connected devices and fixtures, which makes up the electrical system.

After a section with eleven areas, coming to a section with only two topics would make it seem less important; however, the inspector has a lot to check in the electrical system.

The service entrance is the power cables coming to your structure and the equipment used to bring it to your main panel, so this is the starting point for the electrical system in your home. Your main panel (sometimes called a breaker box) could be inside or outside, and it might handle everything for your house, or their might be sub-panels receiving their supply from the main. The inspector will mention safety and installation issues concerning the service entrance and panel (such as are the over head wires too low), if the breakers are sized correctly, and the condition of the panel (such as a missing cover). Moreover, he will check to see that you can turn off the main power quickly, for when you have an emergency. He will look for AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) breakers, which should be on the bedrooom circuits. This is a safety feature to turn off the power is an arc is heating up a piece of metal.

The next section deals more with the interior, but it will contain some exterior items. The branch circuits are the wires in your house that are connected together with one circuit breaker in a panel. The inspector cannot see the wiring in the wall, but he does have equipment to test if the wiring is functioning properly. He will report on the type of wiring. He will look for GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) receptacles in locations such as the bathroom, kitchen, garage, and outdoors. This type of outlet is needed in locations where the outlet could become wet. The inspector will look for loose, missing, or hazardous outlets and switches, and fixtures connected to the electrical system. A fixture will be items like a fan or a light. The newest outlet types are TR (tamper resistant) and WR (weather resistant). These outlets provide greater safety, but they are not commonly installed in homes built before 2009.

C. Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Systems: An explanation of what an inspector will include on a home inspection report when examining the air conditioning (HVAC) system.

The header for this section is usually referred to as HVAC systems. Throughout the country, there are different ways for heating and cooling your home, but the most common air conditioning method in Texas is the forced air system. This section deals with this system in three parts: heating equipment; cooling equipment; and the ducts and vents.

A proper check of the HVAC system can be carried out by an HVAC professional, which some home buyers prefer. However, the home inspector will carry out a check that will indicate if further investigation is warranted. The basic components of the heating system are simple enough: some type of unit to heat the medium (water or air) which will heat your home, and another unit to deliver the heat to the rooms (radiant under floor heating or forced air conditioning). Of course there is more involved than this to the system. The inspector will check the condition of the components, look for signs of wear, and see how the system is functioning. He will tell you the type of system and its energy source.

Like the heating system, the cooling system does the same thing except for cooling.The outside condenser unit and the thermostat are usually listed here. The inspector will state the type of system, its energy source, its condition, and its ability to function. Condition and ability to function reasonably are inspected. Cooling equipment is not checked when the outside temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, since damage to the air conditioning unit could occur. The ducts and vents are the usual means for delivering your hot and cool air. Mainly condition, material, installation, and their ability to deliver air are checked.

The duct system will be examined. The condition of the ducts can effect the energy efficiency of the home, but can also lead to the appearance of a leak through condensation. Filters are examined as well.

D.Plumbing System An explanation of what an inspector will include on a home inspection report when examining the plumbing system.

This section deals with the water flowing through your house. Problems here frequently lead to damage to the structure if left unchecked. (Think of a pipe leaking onto a wood beam). There are four parts discussed under plumbing: water supply system and fixture; drains, wastes, vents; water heating equipment; and hydro-therapy equipment.

The first section, Water Supply and Fixtures, deals with how the water enters your home, moves through your home, and how you access it through fixtures. The fixtures will be faucets, sinks, toilets, showers, bathtubs, laundry tubs, bidets, and hose bibs. Deficiencies in the parts, leaks, incorrect installation are reported. Another concern of this section is if dirty water has the chance of getting into your drinking water, so there needs to be some type of way to prevent back flow. The inspector also will check to see if there is adequate water pressure in the house.

The second section, Drains, Wastes, Vents, deals with how the water is leaving your house. The drain and waste takes the water out of the house, while the vent is to supply air to the pipes so water can flow freely. Think of a child sipping liquid into the straw, and then holding the top end of the straw to prevent the liquid from rushing out; the air is needed for a smooth flow.

The third section, Water Heating Equipment, deals with how your house is supplied with hot water, and what the energy source for the heat is. Condition and safety of the equipment are big concern for the inspector here. The TPR (temperature, pressure,relief) valve is a safety feature on the tank to prevent the heater from exploding, so this is a major concern.

The fourth section is called Hydro-Therapy Equipment, which is better known as a whirlpool or a Jacuzzi, which are name brands. The inspector will be looking at operation, safety, and leak concerns. Leaks from pipes may be reported somewhere in the Structure part of the report, since some water damage could be from a roof leak, or it may be from an inaccessible pipe. Signs of leaks around the fixtures, or for the potential of a leak causing damage will be reported in this part.

E. Appliances: An outline of what a home inspector will look for when examining appliances.

The fifth part of the report deals with those appliances which are considered built-in. They are: dishwasher, food waste disposer, range hood, ranges/cooktops/ovens, microwave cooking equipment (when mounted), trash compactor, bathroom exhaust fans and/or heaters; whole house vacuum systems; garage door operators; door bell and chimes; and dryer vents. Notice that the clothes washer/dryer and refrigerator are not listed, since many people take these with them. Even though the other appliances are considered built-in, a seller could change them out before he sells the house to you. Some inspectors will take down the serial numbers or other information to help you identify the equipment.

Ask the inspector about his practice in this regard, for you may find that the inspector looked at some new equipment which was replaced with a broken one. If you wish the inspector to check another appliance, such as the refrigerator, make that clear to him when discussing hiring him (he may charge extra). For all appliances the inspector will be looking at deficiencies in condition, function, and safety.

F. Optional Systems and G. Commnets : Optional systems are not always optional for a buyer, but an inspector may charge more to look at these systems. I know that I am requested to look at these items when inspecting around Houston.

The sixth part of the report has two main items: Lawn Sprinklers; and Swimming Pools and Equipment. This is a section where you will have to ask the inspector if he will inspect the equipment, since it is not required for him to do so. There is also spots for checking items which go with these features, such as an outdoor cooking area. Also included would be private water wells, outbuildings, gas systems like propane, and private sewage systems.

Not all inspectors will go over these systems, since it may require additional knowledge on the part of the inspector. Some inspectors may simply report on general safety concerns with this equipment. An inspector will probably ask for an additional fee for this equipment inspection. Pools are frequently inspected by pool suppliers, since they have better analysis tools for the job. Lawn Sprinklers can add an additional hour to the inspection, which some buyers and sellers do not like. An inspector will look for adequate water flow and pressure, condition of the parts, and leaks in a sprinkler system. With a pool, he will state the type of pool construction, along with any deficiencies in the surfaces or equipment. One concern for the buyer, is the inspector familiar with this equipment? All home inspectors are trained to examine this equipment, but they will be better to deduce problems if they work with it often.

This is the last page required by the Texas Real Estate Commission.It is meant for notes or other information the inspector wants you to have, but he has not placed in the body of the report, since it did not fit there. Sometimes a summary of the report is placed here. The inspector may just leave it blank. Any information in this section should be mentioned by the inspector.

Other Pages: Home Inspectors have the option of including any additional material they wish to a report, so you need to read.

Each inspector is different in how detailed his information is presented in the report, but the intention of this document is to tell you what you should be concerned about in the new home. If an inspector boasts that his report is forty-five pages long, can you easily find what you need to know before closing? But then again, that forty-five page report may contain information that is very useful to you after you buy your home. Some inspectors wish you to have the basic facts to help you and your real estate agent make a quick decision about concerns which need to be brought up to the seller. Afterwards, a report like this might not help you understand why the inspector said something was wrong. In either case, judge the report by the thoroughness of his investigation, and his willingness to explain it to you.

Personally, I prefer a basic report, so you can quickly access the information, so you and your realtor can determine if you need to discuss repairs with the seller. I try to show as much as possible to my client during the inspection process, but this is not always feasible, so I offer to come out after you have purchased your home, when we can go over the home in a relaxed fashion. Find out about your inspector’s practices in this matter. If your realtor is recommending an inspector to you, then that inspector delivers the information in such a way as to make it comprehensible to that agent, which is good for you, since the agent will know what to act upon quickly. However, it is your report, so it should be beneficial for you as well.

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“This property inspection is not an exhaustive inspection of the structure, systems, or components. The inspection may not reveal all deficiencies.”

“When a deficiency is reported, it is the client’s responsibility to obtain further evaluations and/or cost estimates from qualified service professionals.”

These are two statements pulled from the property inspection report form required by Texas when a home inspection is being performed for the purpose of buying or selling of a property. I am always reflecting upon my service in order to improve my performance, but I am undergoing a more extensive examination at this time of my service. One problem that came up this year can be studied in the idea of evidence. Should a home inspection report contain specific evidence for each finding? What should the evidence be? How detailed should a home inspection report be?
I had a real estate agent and a real estate investor question my reports. Both should have been familiar with home inspection reports. Both should have known what a home inspection entails, but both seemed to be unaware. Looking at the first quote, you will see that phrase “not an exhaustive inspection”. There are two reasons for this wording: time for discovery; and ability to analyze. A home inspection lasts for three to four hours on average, and the entire home is being examined. I can find that the air conditioning’s cooling system is not working. I may have an idea at the cause. However, if I need to pinpoint the reason, I may be spending two to three hours on that alone. If I had to do this with each component, the cost for the home inspection will greatly increase. The next problem is that no matter what tool I use to examine the home, I cannot clearly see every detail under the ground or behind a wall covering. Because of this factor, I may not discover all deficiencies. That does not stop me from trying though.
Going back to the air conditioning example, what evidence can I present? I use tools to examine the unit. I write the results down in my report. What proof do I have that my findings are real? I ask this, because this was in part an issue. I was asked: do I have any proof that I saw what I saw? Taking a picture of the meter’s interface seems silly.Moreover, does a photograph of the unit show it not working? Again, silliness ensues. At this point, I can only tell the questioner that I stand by the report.
This does lead me to the idea of photographs as evidence Taking photographs is not required by the state. A home inspection report can benefit from photographs, but then again, photographs do not necessarily clarify. My policy is to take photographs when requested, or when I feel that a photograph enhances understanding. (I have updated my practice to take photographs with every inspection, but again, not everything can be photographed). I do not include these pictures in the main body of the report. My reasoning for this habit is that I do not want to influence the reader of the report into believing that one issue is more important than another.Think about the situation that most people read my reports. They are coming to the end of the process of buying a home. They have a lot to handle. When looking through the report, they will have a tendency to scan the report. A picture causes them to stop to focus on that one issue, which may or may not be the most problematic.  Another issue with photographs deals with how clear can they be? Look at the following picture. What do you see?

The real estate agent called into question my finding that there are stains on the ceilings of this home. She claimed that she could not find them where I stated. She used that as a springboard to call into question other findings, although she was not able to deny them directly. Does this photograph prove that there was a stain? Can you tell me in which house this photograph was taken? Yes, that is a stupid question, but I want to make the point that taking a picture of a stain that was painted over does not make great evidence. The stain is still there. There was an arrangement to meet the Realtor, but she never showed, and never responded to phone calls. I showed my client the stain, leaving the evidence to that moment.
Should I provide evidence to verify my suspicions? Scenario 1: I see a termite tube leading into a weephole. There is no access to look behind the wall. After mentioning this finding on my report, the termite tube is removed by someone. My suspicion is that the termites would have caused damaged behind that wall.  Scenario 2: Homes built before 1979 may contain sources of lead, such as in the paint. There is the possibility that the lead had been removed during a renovation. To test for all possible lead sources can add time and money to the inspection. Knowing that the law requires homeowners to use a qualified company to do renovations in situations with lead contamination, and that contaminated material needs to be disposed of properly, I will inform the buyer of these facts. I do not know for certain (in other words, I do not have the evidence) that there is lead or termite damage. In this type of situations, I had a real estate investor and a Realtor argue that I should not incorporate my observations like these into the reports. I was told that this was illegal, so I needed to change my report. This is where I refer to the second quote. Stating a possible problem that can be resolved with further testing or evaluation is acceptable. I leave it up to you dear reader, but I think that I should inform my client of concerns. Then they can decide on a course of action which suits them.
The second quote deserves further investigation. A Realtor informed once that my report was not complete without offering estimates on repairs. Yet here in the report format required by the state, we have it clearly written that this is not the case. I bring this topic up, since this idea was brought up in a discussion of evidence. I will create a sheet listing repair estimates for my clients when requested, but I try to make it clear that I can only give a rough idea of the cost, and this refers back to the first quote. However, we then have to understand the extent of damage, and what may need to be done to make the repair. The question posed to me was where was the evidence to the extent of needed repairs. Did my report explain in exhaustive detail the facts to make this estimation?  The report does not need to accomplish this task.  I think we come into a situation of trust at this point. I have been trained to do my job. I am required to keep going through training to maintain my license. If I am making a statement which can legal hold me responsible, such as a property inspection report, maybe you should trust that I am reporting facts. If you are the person who convinces the buyer that my report is false, and then we discover that my findings were accurate, you can then be held liable. Realtors should be careful in this instance.
A home inspection is a visual inspection of a house at a given point in time. Items can be repaired or hidden. Sometimes more investigation is needed. The home inspection report cannot be the most exhaustive analysis of your home, but it can be the starting point for further investigations, while letting you know of problem areas. As for evidence, a home inspector should not make wild claims, so maybe you should trust the findings. If I do make wild claims, those statements can bring me legal trouble, but they also leave a bad impression with my client, so that hurts my business. I have to be reasonable.

Note: I know that the photgraph is fuzzy, I was really trying to capture the stain, but I kept having problems. This photo best captured the fact that there was a stain

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Purchasing a home is possibly the biggest investment a person will make in their lifetime. But no home is perfect. Many homes, whether new construction or resale, may be in need of repairs or corrections. While some items that need attention may be obvious, this is a job for a professional. A home inspector is trained to notice the difference between major and minor problems, determine the cause of the problem and offer you a solution. Obtaining a quality home inspection will make you aware of any items that need to be addressed and help you protect your investment.

A home inspection is just that – a visual inspection of the home, made by a qualified professional, who is trained and has experience in evaluating all the component features in a house. This is not a test, as a house cannot fail this inspection. It is simply the examination of the current condition of a house. It is not an appraisal, which will help determine the market value of the home. It is not a municipal inspection, which ensures the home is up to local code compliance. A Home Inspector will not pass or fail a house, but will indicate items that may need major repair and could affect your buying decision. The inspector will advise you on how to repair or correct those items and how much those repairs or corrections may cost you. Home inspectors will also notify you of any items that are showing wear or that will require maintenance in the near future so you can be aware and prepared for that. You do not want any expensive surprises when purchasing your home. That’s why an inspection is a must in order to inform you of the condition of the house and property, and reduce your risk. Many lenders will require a home inspection before proceeding with the loan.

It is important that you hire a professional. Even the most experienced homeowner or real estate agent lacks the knowledge and expertise of a professional home inspector. They have completed thousands of inspections and are knowledgeable in the elements of home construction, proper installation, maintenance, and home safety. In addition, they have technical equipment they use for inspections to give you the most accurate assessment of the property. When choosing a home inspector, it is important to find one that is not only very thorough but will take the time to explain the results to you and answer your questions. When you call to get an appointment, ask questions concerning the inspection and their qualifications. Ask them what their inspection includes; what will the report look like that they provide to you; and what their cost is. Any qualified professional will expect these types of questions and will not be ready to respond.

The amount of time the home inspector will require in the home can vary upon the size, age, and condition of the home, but it will most likely take somewhere between 2-4 hours. It will be helpful if you are able to be there for some portion of the inspection so that you are seeing the findings first-hand and have the option to ask any questions. Take notes on anything they point out so you can discuss any concerns you have and can get a better explanation later. Just make sure not to get in the inspector’s way. They will inspect everything from the roof to the foundation: attic, ventilation, gutters, basement/crawlspace, foundation, siding, trim, driveways, insulation, roof and flashings, grading, retaining walls, ceilings, walls, chimney, fireplace, electrical, plumbing, heating, air conditioning, flooring, doors, windows, garage and more. When the inspection is complete, you will be presented with a very detailed and easy to understand report outlining their findings. It will have a thorough explanation for each finding and even digital photos identifying what they found. It will alert you to items that need to be repaired or replaced and suggestions on how to handle them. It will possibly even provide you with estimated costs for the repairs so that you will have a good idea of where you stand with the home.

When you receive the results of your home inspection, you should feel confident that you know the condition of the home you are purchasing, including all positive and negative aspects. You should know what repairs are needed, as well as the urgency of the needed repairs, and the magnitude of the repair costs. You should know a proper course of corrective repairs and whether alternatives are available. You should also be aware of any unsafe conditions in the home and the risks involved. You should expect the home inspector to provide the answers to any questions you may have regarding the report and that the inspector will be available to answer any questions in the future.

If any of the problems are significant and too expensive to fix, you can evaluate your options. You can choose to walk away from the purchase of the home if the contract allows it. You can also ask that the seller fix the some of the items noted on the report prior to closing. In addition, you can ask the seller to reduce the purchase price of the home so that you are able to budget for the repairs the home may need. Otherwise, you will need to plan to address the items yourself and come up with an estimated budget that will allow you to do so, as will as a time line that may affect the date that you are able to move into the home.

A home inspection will cost you a little bit of time and money, but in the long run you will be glad you did it. The inspection can reveal problems that will allow you the opportunity to address them before purchasing the home. Remember, you must protect your investment and that starts with a home inspection.

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My home inspector completely missed that problem, so can I sue him? Is the inspector legally responsible for missing an issue with my home in his report? I had a bad home inspection, so what can I do about it? Valid questions, which do bring visitors to this blog. After being asked about a home inspector’s liability in a comment, I remembered a recent inspection, and how it could have gone bad.
Inspections are defined as being visual inspections in state codes, because inspectors cannot take the building apart. Even x-rays or infra-red detection devices do not tell the entire story. Visual in this case does not limit the inspector to simply walking around the home. In states where codes exist, an inspector is required to access areas which should be examined. Equipment with panels that can be removed, should be removed. For example, an outlet cover can be removed; the panel to a gas furnace can be removed; and the interior panel to a breaker box (service entrance panel) can be removed. The next step would be a question of safety. If I remove this panel, could I be harmed? Many inspectors will not remove the interior panel of an FPE breaker box, because these units are known to be dangerous. The next step after safety would be other access concerns. Often a home is inspected when the homeowner is moving out. Garages are used as storage space for their already packed goods. This may prevent an inspector from reaching a piece of equipment. In this case, most inspectors take the view that if the items can be easily removed and replaced, then they will do so to inspect the home.
I was faced with an unusual situation during a recent home inspection which will provide us with a real world scenario to examine. I knew the home had hot water. Since this was a stand alone home, I knew that the hot water was produced  at the home. I mention this, because a condo complex could have its hot water produced at a central location. Typically places where a hot water heater can be stored: attic; garage; and a closet. The problem: I did not spot the water heater during my walk through. I went back through the house twice, but I could not find it.
I have read home inspection reports where an inspector stated that an item which should be inspected could not be found. The item will be marked as deficient or non-compliant as if the problem lies with the home. I decided that if I could not inspect the water heater, I would at least do my best to find its location.  I started in the attic looking for clues. I went to each closet and wall to see if there was a space hidden away (I had found a water heater behind a sealed wall cavity in one home). I ended my search in the garage. Along one garage wall was a series of shelves, while the other walls were bare. When I thought about the layout of the home, I realized there may be a space behind those shelves. Removing boxes from the top of the shelving units, I found a gap behind one unit, and I could see the flue pipe for the water heater. At this point, I could have stopped. I could tell my client that the unit was not accessible. Here is the question for you: would I have met my legal obligations at that point? If I had stopped, I would have noted the situation on my home inspection report, and I would have offered to inspect it, once the shelves had been removed.
What I did on the inspection? I emptied the shelves. I began to see if I could pull the shelves away without breaking anything. Once I had a gap that I could squeeze through, I went into the water heater space. I inspected the unit. Afterwards, I moved everything back into position.
I think that I could have been faulted (held liable) if I had not made a determination of where the water heater is located. I have read inspection reports where inspectors did not bother to do a little bit of extra research, and I did not care for that habit. As for moving the shelving unit, I think that we have a gray area. If a home inspector had to spend his time moving furniture, boxes, or other objects, a home inspection could last for an entire day. However, there should be times when an inspector can move obstructions without a problem. Also, we have to consider the ability of the inspector. Does his/her physical condition prevent them from moving the shelves? I feel that this reasoning is used by inspectors when they do not want to walk a roof. Whether this is right or wrong will be a determination of the client. This is where also local regulations may help define reasonable. If moving the shelf might cause the unit or items near it to break, then the situation would be unreasonable to move the shelves. If the shelving unit was not heavy, and there was no chance of breaking anything, then it would be reasonable to expect me to move it. Another aspect for defining reasonable in the inspection process would be codes stating how an inspection is to be performed. If your state regulates home inspectors, then there will be codes regulating aspects of their job. For example, in Texas an inspector only has to carry a ladder that can reach the roof of a one story house. Although walking a roof of a two story house may be done by one inspector, legally it could be argued that it is not reasonable to expect all inspectors to walk a roof of a two story roof (I am the fool who always attempts to walk every roof).  What do you consider reasonable?

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I decided to take several different reports to create a home inspection report for consumers to view. The report is meant to indicate what could be placed under the standard sections of a home inspector’s findings when he is seeing something wrong. Warning: it is a long page, and the html did not quite work they way that I wanted, so I am correcting it, but I thought that readers may want to see this anyway. Here is the home inspection report.

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As of February 1, 2009, we home inspectors have been using a new property inspection report. This new form reflects changes in a home inspector’s standard operating procedure as defined by the state of Texas, but it is also meant to clarify what a home inspection entails (what you can expect from your home inspector). This past week found me reviewing my original posts on the topic of “Understanding Your Report” to see how I should update it. Most changes to our operating procedures are refinements that are important to my profession, but they do not significantly change what I had previously wrote. Instead of changing the headings of those pages, I thought it would be better to summarize factors that the end user of a home inspection report should know.

The first major change to the property inspection report is the opening paragraph. The old form had a readable opening, but it took some careful reading to understand fully. In the new report, we have a longer introduction written in fairly clear terms. Much of this is dealing with what I had written before in a clear fashion, so I want to hit upon the changes in this section. The most significant change is in how items are reported. We use to state that an item was “in need of repair” (this was indicated by checking the “R” box); however, consumers were confused by the fact that we checked this box when an item did not need to be repaired. Sometimes a home inspector may have been indicating that there is a feature that we consider to be important, like a GFCI outlet in the kitchen, but the outlets in the kitchen worked. Now inspectors are looking for AFCI breakers for the bedrooms. This is a nice safety feature, but it should be up to the consumer of the report to decide to have these installed. That is the main point. By stating “in need of repair”, there was an impression that an item had to be fixed, but this was never the case, and the new introduction makes that statement clear. A buyer cannot force a seller to make a repair. They never could. This should have been part of the negotiation. The new indicator is “D”, which means that an item is deficient. We have to understand that a home may have been built well for its time period of construction, but we are finding new ways to improve the construction of our homes; a home inspection report informs you of those changes.

The next significant change is the list of items inspected. Actually, there are no new parts of the home being inspected, but where a home inspector’s findings are listed has been refined. Under “Structural Systems”, we now have the heading “Stairways”. These were placed under “Walls” in the old report, but the awkwardness of listing issues there has been cleared up by giving it a separate section. Along these lines, you will find some clarifications in the “Appliances” section. “Other Built-in Appliances” and “Whole House Vacuums” have been moved to the optional systems part of the report. These sections were rarely used in the old report. In the “Appliance” section, you will also see that bathroom vents are now handled under “Mechanical Exhaust Vents and Bathroom Heaters”. Bathroom heaters were typically examined by home inspectors, but there was no clear space to write our observations down, so this change helps us find that information in a consistent location. The “Optional Systems” section has the two additions mentioned, and they only other change is the name of some sections to be more all inclusive of what is being examined. That means we now look at “Gas Supply Systems”, “Private Water Wells”, and “Private Sewage Disposal (Septic) Systems”.

The biggest change to our inspection process comes in the “Plumbing” section. Home inspectors had a loose way of inspecting this system when compared to the new requirements. We have to report on static water pressure, which should be between 40 to 80 psi. This is the acceptable range for everything in your home to work well. Before, we just looked at functionality and signs of pressure issues. This defines that we have to check exact pressure. We also need to look if there are ways to reduce the pressure when it is too high. I reported on the location of the meter and main shut off valve in my reports when I saw how some buyers were not sure where these could be. This is now a standard practice for all inspectors. Lack of shut off valves for individual fixtures is a good step for the home buyer. Tub valves frequently cannot be accessed. This is good to know for future repairs. If there is a pressure reducing device in place, we need to look for an expansion tank for the water heater to ensure its proper operation.

As stated, home inspectors will be refining how they look at aspects of your home, but the basis is the same. I believe that these changes will be a good for the industry, because I see them as making it better for the consumer of these reports.

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